Take a Hike! To Cape Flattery, Washington

It was not exactly an easy drive to reach Cape Flattery. From my home in the Southeast to this furthest northwest corner of the continental United States, the trip was roughly 2,800 miles-one way. If driving nonstop, that translates to around 45 hours behind the wheel. (If driving from Anchorage, it's about the same distance). The final 20 miles or so from Sekiu, a gorgeous small fishing village overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca with Canada beyond, may give your passenger a few heart palpitations. Cars traveling northwest must hug the narrow two-lane coastline road (Highway 112) just feet from the perilous drop-off. But awaiting travelers at the end of the drive is a final short hike to the cape with stunning views overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the possibility of spotting humpback whales and bald eagles. We were fortunate to see both.

Cape Flattery is accessed through Makah tribal land, and a permit is required to enter. https://makah.com/attractions/recreation-permits/ The cost was $10 during our visit but it's currently $20 per vehicle and can be obtained from several locations in Neah Bay, which is at the end of Highway 112, 16 miles past Sekiu. We stopped at Pat's Place, a small restaurant with outside seating to view the local harbor, to eat and pay (cash only) for the permit. If you're a tacophile, indulge in Pat's delicious tacos on thick fry bread.

Back on the road, Highway 112 ends at Neah Bay where the road takes a left turn inland through Makah tribal land then veers right, along the other side of the peninsula's coast. Just follow the signs to the Cape Flattery Trail.

The three-quarter mile trail to the observation deck is a fairly easy 20-minute hike and begins downhill on a gravel path through a forest with no sign of the ocean initially. At the beginning of the trail, an oversized pale blue wooden deckchair marked "Neah Bay" makes a great photo op-if you can manage to climb up into the seat. Tall hardwood trees, ferns, and lush green foliage make this a delightful hike through a coastal forest. There are several boardwalks to cross as well as some roots along the path to navigate and several steps. As you progress towards the lookout points, expect the view to be even better than you were anticipating.

Before reaching the main observation deck, there are several overlooks high up on the cliffs that look out over the water as it crashes relentlessly onto the rocks about 100 feet below. There are some areas with no protective barriers, so keep well away from the edges and watch any kids. It was from one of these cliffs that we saw a bald eagle soaring over the treetops.

The best view is from the last deck, revealing the waters from the Strait of Juan de Fuca merging into the Pacific Ocean as it stretches into the distance. The ocean vista is only interrupted by the distant Canadian coast to the north and tiny rugged Tatoosh Island (actually a group of small islands), half a mile offshore from the cape. The main island is home to a historic lighthouse built in 1854 and nesting seabirds are easily visible with binoculars.

Hopeful for a whale encounter during our June visit, we were indeed thrilled when a lone humpback surfaced right in front of the observation deck, a couple of hundred feet away although I was a little slow with the camera, snapping just a black mass moments before it submerged. But standing on the edge of the continental U.S. trapped between the ocean and the sky while surrounded by massive cliff faces battered by exploding white waves was unforgettable. I'd probably drive another 2,800 miles to experience it again.

Nick Thomas has written features, columns, and interviews for many newspapers and magazines. His "It's A Wonderful Hike" website describes short trails, hikes, and walks from around the country that seniors might enjoy while traveling. See www.itsawonderfulhike.com.