Rediscovering "us" in Thailand: Koh Samui

There's something both exhilarating and slightly disorienting about traveling as newly minted empty nesters. No schedules, no negotiations over where to eat, no one asking for Wi-Fi passwords every five minutes. Just the two of us, figuring out how to travel, relax, and reconnect again.

Our final stop brought us to Koh Samui, a palm-fringed island in the Gulf of Thailand known for laid-back beaches, warm waters, and a gentle reminder to slow down – or at least try to.

Travel day – steps vs. snacks

Leaving Chiang Mai, we squeezed in one last walk, because travel days are notoriously low-step, high-snack situations, and we are nothing if not committed to balance. A smooth connection through Suvarnabhumi Airport and a delightful lounge experience, courtesy of Philippine Airlines, kept spirits high despite a delayed flight.

Koh Samui's open-air airport feels more like a botanical garden than a transit hub, which almost softened the blow of paying for a taxi (no ride shares allowed, cue mild grumbling from husband Bruce). Thirty minutes later, we arrived at Lamai Bayview Boutique Resort – rustic, charming, and promising a "bay view" we couldn't see in the dark.

Dinner at the hotel surprised us: shrimp cakes, soy sauce egg noodles, sweet-and-sour chicken -comfort food that hit the spot. Our bungalow was simple and cozy. As for that view? A mystery for morning.

When paradise throws a curveball

Morning revealed it all-ocean, palms, and the kind of view that makes you forget your reading glasses. After a generous breakfast buffet (a skill we've clearly mastered), we launched into our official "Day One Recon Mission" to figure out where we are, what we can walk to, and where the food is, without anyone under 18 vetoing our plans.

The beach? Technically there. Practically? Overtaken by a storm surge. The roads? Busy and not pedestrian-friendly.

After two hours of wandering, we were hot, slightly defeated, and approaching what we'll politely call a "joint meltdown." Salvation arrived in the form of a French bakery, baguette sandwiches, and a much-needed reset. Not every day in paradise feels like paradise, and that's okay. Flexibility, it turns out, is our new skill.

The afternoon redeemed itself with pool time and balcony lounging. Dinner at beachfront Chom Ley Cafe sealed the deal: papaya salad with prawns, green curry, and basil chicken stir-fry. The tide calmed, the beach walk home was lovely, and balance was restored.

The art of the pivot

Pig Island was canceled the next day, thanks to the lingering storm. Disappointing? Yes. Devastating? Not really. Empty nester lesson: when plans fall apart, you simply make new ones.

We took a beach walk, dodging waves with varying degrees of success, then landed at Kawin's Kitchen, a beautifully designed spot with standout flavors. Chicken satay and a bright, herb-packed pork salad quickly became trip favorites.

The rest of the day followed a now-familiar rhythm: pool, balcony, wine, repeat. And a realization, we are not great at doing nothing for too long. Some people are. We admire them. We are not them. So we booked more activities. Growth is important, but so is a well-timed excursion in an air-conditioned van.

Culture, connection, and carnitas

Our island tour kicked off right on time the next morning. It turns out we like relaxation-but give us an itinerary and we come alive.

We visited temples, a Laughing Buddha, the cheeky Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks (the Thai sense of humor is alive and well), a waterfall, and the deeply moving site of a mummified monk. We made a donation and received a blessing-quiet, reflective, and unexpectedly meaningful at this stage of life.

Then, in a plot twist no one saw coming, we had Mexican food. In Thailand. And yes, it was excellent. Nachos, carnitas tacos, and a margarita the size of bad judgment. Even the most devoted Thai food enthusiasts need an intermission.

Afternoon plans? Pool, balcony, wine-and casually dreaming about the next trip. Because apparently, that's who we are now.

Pigs, people, and pure delight

Pig Island finally happened on the fifth day, and it was amazing. A boat ride, a beach, and pigs. Lots of pigs.

Official guidance: Don't feed them, give them water instead. So there we were, poking holes in water bottles while pigs enthusiastically slurped – surreal and oddly delightful. Avoid the large pigs (they bite) and focus on the piglets.

We wandered away from the crowds, a reliable empty nester strategy, and found our own quiet stretch of beach. A quick swim (carefully avoiding any "pig-related hazards") left us refreshed and laughing.

The tour wrapped with snorkeling (a bit murky, but still fun) and a casual island buffet. A weird, wonderful, unforgettable day.

A splurge worth making

For our final day, we chose a smaller, semi-private tour of Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park. It was worth every penny. With 12 people onboard, the experience felt relaxed and personal (there are options for every budget).

We started with snorkeling, then swam into a small sea cave with our guide, something we wouldn't have attempted on our own, and kayaked along the coast. A quick note: kayaking is not as leisurely as it looks. Your arms and back will remind you later.

Lunch was a simple, homemade spread of curries, fried chicken, and rice on a quiet island, unpretentious and delicious. The grand finale: a steep climb to Thale Nai Lagoon, where the view of an emerald-green lagoon rewarded the effort. Pro tip: walk down the stairs sideways. It works.

We returned tired, slightly sunburned, and completely content.

Final thoughts: The joy (and adjustment) of two

Traveling as empty nesters is a shift. There's more space, more spontaneity, and more time to eat, walk, reflect, and occasionally forget what day it is.

Thailand gave us beauty, humor, a few unexpected detours, and the chance to reconnect, not as parents managing a schedule, but as partners rediscovering each other.

And as it turns out, that might be the best destination of all.

Kim Sherry, mother of two daughters and a fourth-generation Alaskan who grew up in King Salmon, is a host on Alaska Public Radio program Hometown, Alaska. She loves to cook and appeared on the third season of 'The Great American Recipe' on PBS as the first contestant ever coming from Alaska. She also participated in the new culinary show "100 Cooks" on the Food Network and HBO. Kim is an artist who specializes in pet portraits, has written and illustrated two children's books, is an avid gardener, and loves to travel.